0:00
So today I'm going to the bouldering gym in Utrecht in the Netherlands and this is my fourth, no my fifth time climbing
0:06
and today I'm taking these very aggressive tight pro shoes to try out
0:11
Oh this is really tight. So I'm a complete beginner and I'm eager to see how these will feel
0:15
My first attempt is on these Scarpa Instinct VS shoes and I'm a bit unsure of where to put my feet
0:21
As you can see the La Sportiva Solutions are here in the foreground
0:25
Now when I put these on I just immediately wanted to take them off but they did feel really great on those grips on climbing
0:33
So just going to grab the first hold there, yes. And then put my feet on that second one, grab the other hold
0:43
So I did feel the shoes helped a little bit get my bearings again there
0:47
So that grip here, almost like that eagle's foot, really helped getting into those small little holes that I normally really couldn't get a hold of
0:56
And these La Sportiva ones even have that a little bit more
1:00
So that's really weird to see that. So continuing the climb, get right in there and then, yeah, match the foot
1:08
And then a smear and just go for that last hold. Yes, I'm going for it and then I just need to match that
1:16
And yep, I'm up there. Yep, victory lap. So that's pretty great
1:20
So I did that on the first go, which is pretty cool. And these things are really, really tight
1:25
I mean, getting them off is hard as well. So let's look at the second go with the La Sportiva Solutions
1:31
But I'll compare that in a split screen to the La Sportiva Mythos shoes, which are a little bit more like regular shoes
1:36
So I'm going up there quite confidently on both attempts. So on the left are the La Sportiva Mythos, which are the flatter ones
1:45
And on the right, the La Sportiva Solutions, which are really aggressive, tight shoes
1:51
So I did feel like I did have a little bit better grip with these solutions
1:56
I'm going for a little bit more of a smear here as well. So I think those really helped
2:01
But my feet feel really bunched up in those. You can see a little redness here
2:05
So I'm not exactly sure if it's worth it. Here's a little bit of a harder climb on these Carpa Instinct VSs
2:11
And let's compare that to the La Sportiva Solutions. So you can see the difference here on a harder climb
2:16
And I'll throw in the Mythos as well. So here you can clearly see how different I'm standing on my toes on those Pro shoes compared to the Mythos, which are very rigid and more flat
2:26
So can I make it with the Pro Scarpa Instinct Vs? I guess we'll never know
2:30
No, just kidding. I didn't make it. But that didn't keep me from trying though
2:34
And I felt like I almost had it with those grippy toe hooks
2:38
But ultimately for a beginner, shoes that are a little bit more comfortable, like the La Sportiva Eco Mythos that I really love, do help to get more out of your session
2:47
Because I really wanted to take off these shoes in between sessions so my feet would stop hurting
2:54
And they're really not comfortable to walk on from one session to another. So I felt like I really didn't get the most out of these shoes as a beginner, as a complete beginner
3:03
But it was fun to try them out. And it did really feel like a difference
3:07
And now if I get a little bit more technique, then shoes like these will really help with those grips
3:11
But for now I think they're definitely not suitable for beginners. And you should buy a comfortable pair if you're beginning
